Diamond Shapes

Shape is the first thing anyone notices about a ring and the last thing anyone tires of. It changes how large a stone looks, how it sits on the hand, and whether it sparkles or flashes. There's no best shape — only the one that suits the hand it's going on.

Finding Your Perfect Shape

Every shape handles light differently. Brilliant cuts scatter it into sparkle; step cuts return it in broad, slow flashes. Elongated shapes look larger for their weight and lengthen the finger. Antique cuts glow rather than glitter, because they were cut for candlelight.

Below is what each one is actually like to own — including the things worth watching for.

Round Brilliant

The most popular shape, for good reason: fifty-seven facets engineered to return as much light as possible. Nothing sparkles harder, nothing suits more settings, and nothing is easier to buy well.

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Princess

Clean square lines with brilliant faceting underneath — modern geometry that gives up almost nothing in sparkle. The pointed corners are the vulnerable part, so we set them protected.

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Marquise

An elongated silhouette with pointed ends, reportedly commissioned by a French king. It carries its weight across the top, so it looks larger than its carat suggests, and it lengthens the finger.

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Cushion

Soft corners, pillow outline, vintage warmth with modern light return. Cushions vary enormously — square or elongated, chunky-faceted or crushed-ice — so this is a shape worth seeing in person before you decide.

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Radiant

The outline of an emerald cut with the faceting of a brilliant. You get the elegant rectangle without the step-cut restraint, and it's forgiving on both color and clarity.

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Emerald

Long, clean, open facets. An emerald cut isn't trying to sparkle — it flashes rather than scintillates, and that restraint is the whole point. It also hides nothing, so color and clarity matter more here than in any brilliant shape.

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Asscher

Stepped facets, cropped corners, remarkable symmetry — square, architectural, unmistakably Art Deco. Like the emerald it conceals nothing, so we're particular about which stones we'll set in one.

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Heart

The hardest common shape to cut well. Symmetry is everything: the lobes have to match, the cleft has to be defined, the point has to be sharp. Done properly it's striking. Done poorly it's obvious.

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Oval

Nearly the brilliance of a round in an elongated outline. It looks larger than a round of the same weight and lengthens the finger. Watch the bow-tie — the dark band across the middle — which varies hugely between stones.

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Pear

A round on one end, a point on the other. Distinctive, flattering, and old enough to be a classic. Like the oval, it should be checked for a bow-tie and set with the point protected.

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Old Mine

Hand-cut before electricity, with a cushioned outline, a small table, and a high crown. Old Mine cuts were made to be seen by candlelight, and they still glow rather than sparkle. Every one is slightly irregular, because a person cut it by eye.

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Old European

The direct ancestor of the modern round brilliant — high crown, small table, large facets, and a soft, candlelit fire no modern cut reproduces. Antique stones with real history, and no two alike.

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Why Fey & Co.

Bespoke Design

Every piece starts with your idea, not a catalog. From choosing the stone to setting the last prong, your jewelry is designed one-on-one and made for you specifically.

Designed & Crafted by Fey

Ninety-nine percent of what we sell is designed and produced in-house or locally, by people we know by name. That's why we can answer any question you have about how your piece was made.

Jewelry for a Lifetime

Resizing, cleaning, repairs, and the occasional rescue after a bad day. We're still here decades after the sale, because a piece meant to last a lifetime needs someone to look after it.